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Improving Color Across Suppliers



Shoshana Burgett, Director of Corporate Strategy for X-Rite Pantone, shares her first piece with WhichPLM, in which she discusses the importance of color standards, and the many challenges surrounding color. Shoshana is responsible for leading X-Rite Pantone’s VOC initiative across all industries, identifying market trends and helping the company create innovative products supporting emerging customer needs.

“Sometimes it’s not enough to know what things mean, sometimes you have to know what things don’t mean.” 

~ Bob Dylan


Color is an integral part of every product we see and touch, and it elicits an emotional response. So, when a product fails to meet the intended color on the shelf or in the showroom, consumers step away from it. This causes a ripple effect of pain from the brand and design team all the way through procurement, suppliers and manufacturing.

The process of bringing a product to market is complicated. Like most things in life, the world of our imagination is broader and brighter than what reality will allow. It does not matter if it is a new product or a refresh; taking a product to market involves various parallel development activities, review and revision cycles and many meetings to discuss, review and align on design, color and materials.

This is reinforced by a recent X-Rite Pantone study of 625 designers who found that color was their number one go-to-market challenge. When we sharpened our focus, color consistency across materials is the common theme. Concurring on color, defining a standard and leveraging technology to ensure consistent, achievable color can help remove the pain and frustration created by the constant back and forth between marketing design, technical design and suppliers.

Getting everyone to agree on anything, especially something that can be as subjective as color, takes time; and there are several steps across the development cycle required to understand not only how color will behave on a given material, but also how the total look and feel of the final product will play in the market. Luckily there are new and innovative solutions on the market that help designers understand how color will look on various materials. These solutions can provide a designer the tools to develop and gain agreement on palettes earlier in the design cycle.

A team effort

When verifying color quality, it is common for designers and suppliers to view items outside in natural daylight. But natural daylight varies wildly depending on geography, season, time of day and overall weather conditions. The best way, and the most commonly overlooked activity, is to evaluate color with controlled lighting provided by a light booth. Depending on the product or industry, D50 or D65 Daylight is the standard viewing condition for approvals. Designers should also view samples under the lighting conditions where the product will appear—for example, store or home lighting. Increasingly that also includes LED lighting – a lighting condition that many light booths still do not support, and one with no defined industry standard.


Clients or other team members may not be aware of how important this step is and may not have access to a light booth. That’s why we developed a simple tool, our Pantone Lighting Indicator stickers, that can quickly allow individuals to determine if the viewer is in appropriate lighting conditions. I’m always amazed at people who say they approved the color from their hotel room or office without understanding the negative impact that this decision can have, and the unneeded costs and cycles that result from approving color without using controlled lighting.

Color and material challenges

Another recent study from X-Rite Pantone reinforced the fact that getting to and maintaining accurate color is a top concern among brands and designers. Breaking the results out in more detail reveals that consistent color across suppliers, and achieving accurate color on target materials/substrates, are leading challenges.

For many designers, inspiration occurs in the real world and is often captured as an image. This image, usually an RGB image, is moved into Photoshop where colors are identified. At this stage, CMYK values, L*a*b or HEX values, or a Pantone color value can be used. There are many tools, like Pantone Studio, that allow a designer to quickly and easily capture an image and automatically send it to Adobe software, or promote their palette on social or email. The challenge is that many of the most common color spaces used by designers only work within a physical realm.

Designs move between the digital and physical worlds during the development process. Designs are digital, physical samples are produced from those designs, digital designs are modified to better achieve design intent based on physical sample results, and so on. Even after products launch, there is a continued balance and having a physical and digital standard for products that will help streamline color communications and rework. The nature of a company’s products and materials, the complexity of a supply chain, and internal innovation, will all determine whether a brand works with a visual standard, a combination of visual and digital standards, or has moved to a completely digital color standard.

CMYK, L*a*b, and Pantone values can all help communicate color and guide a design team through the creation stage of the physical product. But with the back and forth between the physical and digital worlds, it is important to keep in mind that monitors and screens may not always reflect color and appearance of your product in the same way a physical sample does; they are simply a different vehicle for viewing color. Materials all behave differently, light will reflect and diverge, and formulations will vary by region and materials on hand. When designing, it’s important to choose colors that are actually achievable on the target material and colors and material that can be manufactured, not just colors that look good on the screen.

This can be achieved by working with color standards early in the process. This includes color standards like PANTONE TCX for Fashion and Home produced on cotton, or for a limited color set, even nylon. There are also many PANTONE standards for plastics, paint, metallics, and paper. [Editor’s note: these different standards can all be obtained from the Pantone website.] Using these standards as a guide is a first step in ensuring that colors can be manufactured. Leading brands also engage the Pantone Color Institute to help develop unique brand colors or palettes on a wide variety of materials beyond the productized standards the company provides off the shelf.

Working with tools that simulate colors on specific materials is another great place to start. Tools like PantoneLIVE™ Color Book and Viewer allow packaging designers to create, simulate their color on the packaging material and finally specify those colors to suppliers. This way a designer can quickly see how a color will appear on Kraft board versus a white backing material or other materials that may be part of the total package or display. This gives designers the ability to accurately visualize their design in Illustrator and make color decisions much earlier in the process. Providing designers with tools that visually represent color on material minimizes rejects and rework, and the frustration that can be caused by getting too far down the path with colors that are not achievable on the target material.

There are even more innovative technologies underway that allow brands and manufacturers to capture not only color, but all of the appearance characteristics of a particular material, and incorporate that data into design decisions. X-Rite’s Total Appearance Capture (TAC™) ecosystem is an appearance measurement solution that brings a new level of accuracy and efficiency to the capture, communication and digital presentation of physical materials in the virtual world. TAC enables designers, 3D artists, material specifiers and marketers to bring their product designs to life with digital materials that have the exact same visual characteristics as their physical counterparts. Thought leaders in industries like automotive and leisurewear are moving rapidly to adopt this innovative approach to a seamless and realistic virtualization from design through product development.

Data is your friend

Once everyone agrees on a color, the final standard is measured using a spectrophotometer. There are different types of spectrophotometers, and the right type of spectrophotometer must be selected based on the products manufactured and the defined tolerances. Designers might start by working in RGB or HEX. They may make their way to a CMYK color or a spot color like Pantone. At some point, the color is measured, and L*a*b is the most frequent color space used at this point. However, everyone is better served by using spectral data that is the result of the color being measured by an appropriate spectrophotometer.


Spectral data is device independent and all other color formulas – like RGB, CMYK, extended color gamut or custom formulas – can accurately be derived from spectral data. “When you measure a color with a spectrophotometer, the spectral data that you get is like the DNA of that color,” says Brian Ashe, solutions architect for X-Rite Pantone. “That data can be of real value for anyone because it gives excellent guidance hitting that color when it is run on different substrates using different processes, or predicting how the color will look under different lighting conditions.” Few designers, brands and even some manufacturers may know what spectral data is, but within a complex supply chain that requires accurate and achievable color, it is simply your friend.

In most supply chains, a variety of different brands and models of instruments are used, and results can vary. Laboratory managers or material specialists will use higher end equipment that holds to a fixed threshold. Doing so ensures that the most accurate color specification is communicated at the beginning of the process. On the other hand, a simple quality check tool may be used to check production, where the tolerance is not as tight. In either case, the instrument choice is key: once you make that decision, you set the standard for the balance of the process. A color-critical product like a best-selling men’s shirt that needs to coordinate with other apparel items may have a need for a tighter tolerance than, say, faux jewelry that has a lower development cost or may be a short, seasonal item with simpler expectations. The determination about acceptable color variance is generally made between procurement, QA, and the Product Design teams. 

Needle in a haystack; making data your friend

Data accumulated in Product Lifecycle Management (PLM) solutions can be confusing because many people are feeding information into the system simultaneously, and data entry may not always be consistent. Having a set of defined processes for color data entry, data management and supplier auditing can help streamline operations and avoid problems later on, for designers, brand owners, suppliers, retailers and e-commerce operations.

The other consideration is the fact that we operate in a global environment. This requires sharing data and verifying color quality across oceans and time zones. When something goes wrong, it can be time consuming to identify and correct the problem. Ensuring there is a standard process in place for entering PLM data (HEX, RGB, CMYK, spectral data or any standard like Pantone) across the entire supply chain is critical. We work in a digital and physical world where brand colors need to be consistent across a multitude of digital and physical products. PLM serves several customers. The e-commerce team leverages the data in the bill of materials (BOM) to create the on-line experience, while suppliers need to understand the tolerances and production process steps to put the product together. Adhering to a defined process removes confusion that can occur when multiple standards are being used.

Instrument auditing tools like NetProfiler and those built into color measurement instruments and software can ensure the measurements at the supplier level are meeting standards and specifications. It’s great a supplier can meet your quantity and costs, but products that do not meet color tolerances can impacts sales. Having the ability to assess if a supplier is working to your specifications is of value and these types of tools offer the ability to trace back and identify the source of the problem. Software that monitors and checks the devices is like an engine light on a car, informing the driver when to take the car in for an oil change. Leveraging such tools enables brands and complex supply chains to operate with standard work processes, driving consistency and reducing costly color mistakes before they occur.

Marriage of color and material

Designs begin in 2D using apps like Adobe Creative Cloud, and many of today’s designs eventually enter the 3D realm. X-Rite has been innovating here by focusing on the automotive industry with its new appearance and visualization solutions. With the TAC scanner, physical materials can be scanned, capturing both color and material appearance, and easily migrated to the digital world. This approach streamlines the development process and significantly reduces the time that designers spend manually adjusting digital files. Designers can now move to photo-realistic digital assets that more accurately represent the appearance of the final color and material in a 3D design.


The TAC Scanner is one part of the TAC ecosystem. The ecosystem includes a controlling hub, called PANTORA, which allows users to store, manage, view and edit digitally captured materials and to exchange these materials, via the Appearance Exchange Format (AxF™), with today’s leading PLM and CAD systems. The TAC Virtual Light Booth can be used to evaluate digitized materials rendered on virtual objects under multiple lighting conditions and in direct comparison to physical samples.

By engaging the TAC ecosystem, the design to manufacturing process can be sped up even further. In the automotive space, it is projected that material appearance technology solutions will help reduce the cycle time for approving color on material and accelerate speed-to-market. Having a photo-realistic digital material library based on standard formats also provides color and material consistency in virtual designs from one platform to another. This offers brands a new way to communicate both color and appearance, internally and externally.

Innovation in manufacturing

Today’s manufacturing workflows are digital, but we work within a physical world. We need to help designers, both 2D and 3D, work seamlessly across both worlds by providing them with relevant insights that help them make reasonable and rational decisions up front. There is no magic wand that automatically ensures color consistency across materials and manufacturing processes, but today’s tools and solutions make it easier than ever to understand the limitations of materials, how best to formulate color for those materials, and why it is important to use spectral data to evaluate whether color conforms to the established standards. When you triangulate those three, a new world of color opens up that provides designers and brand managers with the color and material palettes that enable them to confidently and consistently produce products across a wide range of materials. That’s the end game, and that’s where this next generation of color innovation is taking us.

Shoshana Burgett Shoshana Burgett is a thought leader and industry consultant in on-demand manufacturing. With over two decades in on-demand printing and personalization, Shoshana has been at the forefront of personalized production and omnichannel communications. She has served as a senior executive at Fortune 500 companies, in both a U.S. and non-U.S capacity, supporting leading brands in packaging, print, footwear, apparel and automotive. Empathic to the challenges at each step has, Shoshana has been instrumental in various product developments that have been transformative to the industry. She has held positions at X-Rite, Pantone, Xerox and currently runs colorkarma.com. Colorkarma is the leading resource for the creative community focused on designing for execution, helping the creative community transition and adopt new technologies and processes. As a WhichPLM contributor, she is able to share her thoughts on these new technologies that are transforming brands, from product development to business models and marketing channels.